THE BEST COMBINES TWO COUNTRIES: PLAC F/W 2016 NYFW MEN’s

Editor| Jean Chenery     Photos| Yitong

Unique is the best word to describe this show, this designer and his work pieces.  For F/W 2016, Korean designer Jae Wan Park has presented us with his military-inspired outerwear pieces and gave us a feeling of Asian cult. This season he also focus on the functions of his pieces, like a loden green-sleeved leather jacket and black quilted sleeve coat, which look warm enough to fight against the coldness in New York. Park’s work this year also converts the message of primary color sets as black and white, for those items like pinstripe cropped navy trousers, block print graphic tees, ’80s-appropriate faded gray denim jackets, and forest green topcoats. It is worth mentioning that his accessories this season like scarves are endowed with a historical sense of ’90s vibe, collocation with black and white Doc Martens who to showcase a channel rebellious ’80s style.

2016 F/W 纽约男装周| PLAC出色的韩国表情

策划:秦一童      编辑:钱纳里      摄影:秦一童

PLAC在韩国就跟CLOT在国内的地位一样,本国人民知道众多,但出了国土,外国民众知道的就甚少了。但其实,PLAC的衣服,尤其是牛仔裤,可是最受时尚明星们追捧的神物了。早在2016年春夏展秀的时候就大受褒奖,此次秋冬男装季,就更是抢尽风头了。看来韩国服装真是风头赶得紧,比韩剧在国际上的地位领先太多了,膜拜。

韩国设计师Jae Wan Park今年的作品很有日本剑道和美国空军风格的融合味道。具有武士精神的毛料外套看起来自有飘逸之风、隽永之势,但又和另一件飞行员夹克的军事风格外套相得益彰;并且,他把所有的作品都仿佛做成了一件收藏品,既在里面注入了刚好够剪裁,尤其是对长裤精致剪裁的极度崇拜和用心。2016年秋冬系列,PLAC在一些皮毛连帽大衣外又贴了一层浮毛,看起来似乎足够温暖,足以抵挡任何即将到来的暴风雪,具备了城市和海湾居住的多样性能,比如,低调的罗登呢绿色的短袖皮夹克和袖口绗缝更大胆的黑色外套。

这次的展示中,在以黑色和白色为主要色系的集合中,有几个离群的细条纹海军裤,同时搭配上版画图形的T恤,像极了80年代的风格,另一个好的例子就是适当褪色的灰色外套和森林绿面漆夹克。而这次他的配饰设计,例如围巾,略有90年代的氛围,与黑白DR. MARTENS靴搭配以后,颇有Chanel 80年代的风格。

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