BCBG Max Azria Fall/Winter 2016, The Performer

By Erika Relyea     Photos| UNIPX MEDIA

Since it’s first debut in the Fall of 1996, BCBG Max Azria now marks it’s 20th anniversary of NY Fashion Week.

The BCBG Max Azria’s Fall/Winter collection this year is all about the art of dance. The music selection included a remix of David Bowie’s greatest hits in homage to his lifetime contributions to fashion and dance.

Shimmering pieces are scattered amongst a palette of subdued hues along with a variety of glitter knits defining the runway. This was the main inspiration of the season, according to Lubov Azria, Creative Director at BCBG. Everything is built around the idea of “The Performer”. Unusual for this brand, nearly all looks are asymmetrical and appear tangled, creating the impression that every piece is captured in movement.

Throughout the whole show, a resonating eclectic pop vibe filled the room. BCBG kept true to its European folk influence with a sheer kaftan, patch fur coats, and leather accessories. This year, WGSN calls this look the “Gypsy Nomad”, as seen throughout NY Fashion Week. Clad in slashed tights and arm warmers, the models are dressed for Flashdance in a small European village.

This collection steps boldly into the world of performance, one not so familiar to the brand. Overall, BCBG was able to convey its wild inspiration in a way that held constant to its brand image, while also appealing to a younger audience.

奶奶的剪刀| BCBGMAXAZRIA 2016秋冬纽约时装周T台秀

策划/摄影:秦一童      编辑:钱纳里

BCBGMAXAZRIA GROUP公司成立于1989年,可以说是一个人生命的缩写,他就是Max Azria,创始人、设计师、董事会主席兼CEO。1981年,在经过十一年的为妇女设计服装的经历后,他离开他的家乡巴黎搬到美国,并推出Jess这一系列的新概念精品店零售,向美国妇女提供时尚的法国设计。在一系列的商业成功后,Azria的决定追求为现代美国女性打造时尚装束的梦想,推出了一个自己的服装工作室,这就是BCBGMAXAZRIA的诞生。品牌名字来源于法国俚语“bon chic, bon genre”,意思是“有型,有态度”。这个品牌完美体现了成熟的欧洲审美和美国独立精神的结合。

在美国生活过的少女、熟女们对BCBGMAXAZRIA都有着多多少少的熟悉度,他家可以是party前购买裙装的应急站,也可以是上班不知道穿什么时候的救世主。过往的风格,BCBGMAXAZRIA多以轻度高贵典雅为主。

此次2016年秋冬的主题,BCBGMAXAZRIA的两位联名设计师,Lubov Azria和Max Azria,更是玩出了新花样,他们把目光聚焦在了多种元素和文化的混搭风格上。

他们延续了之前秉持的加州“冲浪和滑板”主题设计,但同时,他们又在设计中巧妙地添加了更多“看似吉普赛,但又胜似吉普赛”的风格——宽大的民族风外套、深色条纹针织内搭、黑色破洞紧身收腿裤,模特穿它们在身上,让人感觉他们不光光是走秀,更多的是“表演”,走起步来层层叠叠,仿佛每一层掀开,都是一个故事,有一个比喻听上去可能非常的恰当:他们看起来像是刚看完一场马戏团出来的旅行人。

同时,从这次走秀的服装中,不难看出,最突出的一点就是:“层次感”。所谓层次感,不是多层布料的简单堆积和缝接,而是把每一块布料都安放在最合适的位置,体现出剪裁的立体和定位的别具匠心。不知为何,这样的层次感,加上棉麻粗布材质的布料使用,让人不禁回想起炊烟袅袅处,自家奶奶亲手缝制的衣服,舒服、厚实、深沉、温暖。回忆起来,难道不是奶奶缝的衣服,穿起来最有爱吗?

不然怎么说,看上去质朴的、实际上坚韧的,才能走的最远呢。

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